UNAIR NEWS –Kebaya is a timeless garment that has endured through the ages. Today, it is worn not only for formal events but also as a fashion statement and a symbol of personal identity. In celebration of National Kebaya Day on July 24, Moordiati MHum, a historian from the Faculty of Humanities (FIB) Universitas Airlangga (UNAIR), explains that the kebaya was recognized long before Indonesia’s independence. It was first introduced by European nobility and priyayi in the 19th century.

Actually, clothing has existed in the classical era, during the Hindu-Buddha period, but at that time, garments did not fully cover the body. It was only upon entering the civilized era that society realized the need for clothing that covered the entire body,” she explained.

Moordiati noted that during that period, the kebaya was highly exclusive and limited to certain groups. Commoners typically wore kemben for daily activities. She added that kebaya was considered a very exclusive garment at the time.

“Initially, the native population became acquainted with the kebaya through interactions with the nobility. For instance, laborers or servants who worked for the nobility eventually adopted the kebaya worn by the aristocracy,” she said on June 21, 2024.

Distinctive features

At that time, differences in kebaya were evident from the materials used. Nobles or priyayi tended to wear kebayas made from luxurious fabrics like velvet, adorned with gold buttons.

In contrast, commoners wore kebayas made from simpler materials, now known as lurik. “These differences highlighted the social classes of the period, distinguishing between the lower middle class and the upper class,” she elaborated.

She added that despite the differences in materials, kebaya styles were similar. Historical sources show that both servants and the upper class wore the kebaya encim, a blend of Indonesian and Chinese cultures.

“Indo-European women played a significant role in maintaining kebaya’s presence. They preserved the kebaya not just for its aesthetic value but also for its comfort, adapting it to the climate of the Dutch East Indies,” she added.

Turning point

Today, kebaya is worn by people of all social classes and no longer serves as a marker of social status. One of the trendsetters was Madam Tien Soeharto, the wife of Indonesia’s second president.

“Madam Tien Soeharto was known for her elegant appearance and habit of wearing the Kutubaru kebaya. This trend was carried on by the first ladies from the Soekarno to the Soeharto era, laying the foundation for the kebaya trend among Indonesian women today,” Moordiati remarked.

Moordiati hopes the kebaya will continue to be preserved through generations, especially by the youth, as they are the future of the nation. She encourages young people to wear the kebaya on various occasions. “If not initiated by the youth, who will preserve the kebaya for future generations?” she said.

Author: Satrio Dwi Naryo

Editor: Feri Fenoria

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